Magical mystery tour

- Thien Duong is Vietnam’s longest cave and filled with magical and mysterious formations, no wonder Quang Binh province hope to entice tourists into the dark.

On a train from Hanoi station, my friends and I travel south into the night. Our destination is Quang Binh province, but ultimately we are heading for Thien Duong (Paradise) Cave, which is, we are told, the most spectacular cave in Vietnam.

At 31km, Thien Duong is certainly the longest dry cave found in Vietnam so far. Discovered in 2005 by the British Cave Research Association, the cave runs through the Phong Nha – Ke Bang Park’s conservation area. It is said that the cave’s beauty is reminiscent of an imperial palace and it’s hoped that the cave can become a substantial tourist site.

Currently a 500m section is open to tourists and Truong Thinh Group has already invested over VND40 billion ($2 million) into a tourist project that aims to “draw visitors from all over the world.”

On a train from Hanoi station, my friends and I travel south into the night. Our destination is Quang Binh province, but ultimately we are heading for Thien Duong (Paradise) Cave, which is, we are told, the most spectacular cave in Vietnam.At 31km, Thien Duong is certainly the longest dry cave found in Vietnam so far. Discovered in 2005 by the British Cave Research Association, the cave runs through the Phong Nha – Ke Bang Park’s conservation area. It is said that the cave’s beauty is reminiscent of an imperial palace and it’s hoped that the cave can become a substantial tourist site. Currently a 500m section is open to tourists and Truong Thinh Group has already invested over VND40 billion ($2 million) into a tourist project that aims to “draw visitors from all over the world.”

A national symbol

The cave is in the heart of a limestone mountain range, surrounded by the pristine forests of Phong Nha-Ke Bang national park. It’s a pleasant trek to the mouth of the cave. Inside there are stunning four-metre-long stalagmites and stalactites, thousands of years in the making.

In the opinion of Phuong, our 24-year old tour guide, the system of stalactites and stalagmites is as beautfiul as Vietnam’s cultural symbols from north to south such as terraced fields of Sapa, the communal houses or gongs from the Central Highlands, or the Champa towers found throughout the southern half of the country.

“The stalactites here have a lot of quartz which is why they’re sparkling,” says Phuong. The magnificent structure of the cave and the magical beauty within left those first-time explorers flabbergasted. Here is a majestic underworld and so the British explorers called it “Paradise” (Thien Duong). If size is beauty, the stats are certainly alluring: the cave boasts a width of 30m to 150m and a height of up to 80m. The British spelunkers immediately declared Thien Duong as “the largest and most beautiful cave in the Phong Nha-Ke Bang area.”

Opening the cave up to the world

Prior to 2005, scientists believed the cave was no longer than 5km but on their return, they discovered the remaining 26km section.

Unlike Phong Nha or Tien Son caves, which are also within the Phong Nha – Ke Bang area, the atmosphere in Thien Duong is always cool and moist with an average temperature of 20-21 degrees. Sitting in front of the cave you can feel a cold blast of air; a pleasing respite from the 30-35 degree heat outside. At the beginning of the cave, there is a huge arch which is said to symbolise the Mountain Genie who will defend the prevailing peace inside.

Compared to Phong Nha Cave, the stalagmites in Thien Duong are more various in shape and size – there are some which stretch for up to 60m, some which are said to look like the three Vietnamese gods of Happiness, Fortune and Longevity. Others are said to look like tigers, elephants and fish.

Along with Thien Duong, Phong Nha, Tien Son caves, Quang Binh province also wants to add the recently-discovered Son Doong cave to its tourism development strategy. That cave was found in 2008 and is estimated to be five times larger than Phong Nha Cave, previously considered the biggest in Vietnam.

Just a few kilometres away from Thien Duong you can make your way down the mountain to visit Tam Co (Eight Ladies) Cave. This is where eight young female volunteers and five soldiers died in November, 1972.

At that time, Quang Binh was carpet bombed during the US-Vietnam war as the US military sought to obliterate the Vietnamese supply line, which connected the north to the south – part of the so-called Ho Chi Minh Trail. The eight women and five men trapped in a cave after a bomb landed on the mountainside by Quyet Thang road. For nine days people tried to save the people inside but all efforts were in vain. It wasn’t until 25 years later that the cave was reopened and the remains were removed and exhumed.

Quang Binh on the rise

Away from the magic of the cave, Quang Binh is an impoverished area. It is the authorities’ great hope that the caves can prove to be a boon for tourism in the locality. There is also a stretch of unspoiled beach, the spectacular Truong Son Mountain range, and of course, the UNESCO reognised National Park of Phong Nha-Ke Bang. All of these natural attributes, together with the expanding Sun Spa Resort, can help the province attract all kinds of tourists – surfers, adventurers, nature-lovers, hill walkers and pleasure-seekers.

Source: http://www.vietnamnews.us/travel/magical-mystery-tour/

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Yang Bay attracts tourists in search of natural paradise

Yang Bay in the central province of Khanh Hoa is famed for its pristine beauty, expansive forests, and glassy waterfalls – in fact the superlatives go on and on.

Tranquil: Local and foreign travellers enjoy the cool waters at the Yang Khang Waterfall. (VNS File Photos)

Duong Le Na, an overseas Vietnamese from the US and her friends recently decided to travel to the site. When they arrived at Yang Bay she was beside herself with joy.

“On the stone steps of the gentle slope we started our journey to Yang Bay waterfall. The fresh air the cool water, I’m in ecstasy,” she wrote in an e-mail to a friend.

“The quite beatitude is broken by the roaring of the waterfall. The waterfall feeds into several small lakes below, of which the deepest is 16m. My friends and I immediately drove into the water to enjoy the coolness. We are all in agreement that this is the most beautiful place on earth,” Na wrote.

Yang Bay means “heaven’s waterfall” in the language of the Gia Rai people, one of the 53 ethnic groups in Viet Nam.

The river begins at a spring some 2km higher up in the mountains. It plunges down several waterfalls into a one-metre deep crystal clear pool.

The two other major waterfalls in the area are Yang Khang and Hocho. After a refreshing dip, visitors can relax in a natural hot spring.

Yang Bay waterfall is also famed for the “lithophone” that has been erected – iron wires fastened to the cliff that play as the water passes over it.

Gia Rai residents are proud of their musical ability and are only too happy to entertain visitors. They play traditional instruments such as the chapi, t’rung, tacung flute, taleploi clarinet and the dan da (stone instrument).

Situated in Khanh Vinh District’s Khanh Phu Commune, Yang Bay waterfall forms part of the 57ha Yang Bay Tourism Park.

Panoramic: A view of Yang Bay.

Locals put on a variety of activities to entertain tourists, such as pig racing and crossbow shooting. There is also a 4,500sq. m bear farm. Visitors can also feed crocodiles.

Na’s friend Ken Jones was particularly taken by the crocodile farm. “Feeding the crocodiles was fun but terrifying,” he said.

Na meanwhile fell in love with the orchid gardens.

“I have lived far from my homeland for more than 30 years. I can’t believe how beautiful and pristine this place is,” she said.

After the orchid gardens Na and her friends listened to locals playing the dan da and t’rung, which consists of five to seven pieces of bamboo of varying length that are tied together with two parallel cords. It can be rolled up. When played it is hung from a metal frame. The musician strikes the bamboo with two to four rods. The sound of the t’rung is reminiscent of running water.

“At the end of the evening, we relaxed by a campfire and sampled local culinary delicacies such as grilled crocodile and steamed bamboo filled with minced pork. Ostrich is another popular local dish,” said Na.

To get to Yang Bay from Nha Trang City you must pass through Dien Khanh town and several villages.

Yang Bay reserve occupies 570ha and is famed for its virgin forest. It is known as Gia Rai in the local language.

Entrance tickets cost VND30,000 for adults and VND15,000 for children. English speaking tour guides cost VND100,000 per hour, while Vietnamese language guided cost VND50,000 per hour, said tourism official Hoang Van Khanh, who works for Khotoco Co.

The 800m tree-lined path to the centre is a festooned with flowers and creepers. The foot weary can catch an electric bus for VND10,000.

For those wanting to take a dip in Yang Khang Waterfall, swimming costumes can be hired for VND60,000 to 70,000. Floats cost VND5,000.

Just under a kilometre away is the Hocho Waterfall.

Yang Bay welcomes thousands of visitors each year.

“We plan to invest billions of dong in Yang Bay. We want to build a mud bath and a high-end resort,” Khanh said with a smile surveying the beautiful countryside. “Then more people will be able to enjoy the nature and the loveliness of the reserve.

Vietnam News

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Vietnam joins ranks of Asia’s finest hotels and resorts

Conde Nast Traveler, a renowned luxury travel magazine, has placed five Vietnamese hotels and resorts atop its list of Readers’ Choice Awards.

Vietnamese resorts that made the top 20 list for best resorts in Asia included, Life Heritage Resort-Hoi An, The Nam Hai, and Evason Ana Mandara & Six Senses Spa.

The Sofitel Legend Metropole-Hanoi and the Park Hyatt-Saigon, each won top spots in the survey of the 100 top hotels in Asia.

While readers lodged three Vietnam resorts onto the list, they also sung the praises of five resorts from Bali and five resorts from Thailand.

Hotel Metropole Hanoi

“Both Bali and Thailand have tremendous reputations as resort destinations,” said John Blanco, the new general manager at The Nam Hai. “So, for Vietnam to make this kind of impression on readers of such a distinguished travel magazine is indeed remarkable.”

The Readers’ Choice Awards polled 25,916 responses from readers who rated resorts and hotels across these five categories: food/dining, location, overall design, rooms and service. Resort ratings were also based on activities/facilities.

According to Conde Nast, only candidates that received a required minimum number of responses were deemed eligible for an award.

None of Vietnam’s islands made the Readers’ Choice Awards. Bali and Phuket were among the top three island destinations in Asia, which makes Vietnam’s resort standings all the more impressive.

Similarly, Vietnam’s top cities failed to make the top-ten cut. Bangkok and Chiang Mai came in at number 1 and 2, while Bali’s Ubud ranked fifth.

Source: Vietnam joins ranks of Asia’s finest hotels and resorts

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Get Ready Adventures in Vietnam’s Best Eco Lodges

Renowned for hiking, highly qualified local guides, stunning backdrops and a rich cultural heritage, Vietnam’s northwestern highlands are a prime destination for travelers looking for an off-the-beaten-path adventure like no other. Making the region even more attractive are the spectacular eco-friendly accommodations built on a vision of community sustainability.

Mai Chau Valley, Vietnam

Mai Chau Lodge
Nestled in the stunningly beautiful mountainous region of Hoa Binh Province, 135 km south of Hanoi, Mai Chau Lodge strives to preserve local traditions, culture and the natural surroundings of its lush valley setting. The lodge is built from a socially and environmentally responsible vision. Using sustainable local materials, Mai Chau Lodge boasts a natural beauty, blending perfectly into its surroundings.

Set among rice fields, misty mountains and fascinating hill tribe people, this community-minded gem boasts 24 immaculately maintained rooms. The thoughtfully appointed quarters offer unique charm with cozy wood furnishings and local décor, some offering private verandas which open onto views of the lily pond and the setting sun. Waking to the scene of lotus flowers and farmers grazing their water buffalos in the nearby rice fields is an unbeatable experience which reflects the authentic character of the region.

Activities at Mai Chau
In addition to sustainable building practices, Mai Chau Lodge offers excellent adventure trips. Local qualified guides lead travelers to Thai hill-tribe communities in the region for a highly authentic experience, immersing them in the traditions and lifestyles of natives. A community effort, the well-designed tours to Pu Luong Reserve, one of 5 natural reserves in the area, for wildlife and bird watching, a visit to nearby White Thai village, or to the lodge’s Mo Luong Bat Cave and to the local Black Hmong market, fishing at Mo Luong Lake, kayaking, cycling the green countryside and returning in the evening after a fun-filled day to relax in the sauna, jacuzzi or steam room – all round out the activity offerings at this unique lodge.

Set amongst some of Vietnam’s most stunning scenery, a trip to the northwestern highlands of Mai Chau Lodge offers a mix of off-the-beaten-path eco adventure and culture in an up-close encounter with some of Vietnam’s most colorful inhabitants and traditions.

Victoria Sapa Resort
High in Vietnam’s remote northwestern highlands near the Chinese border, the former hill station of Sapa, famous for its pristine verdant environment, unparalleled scenery and cool climate is home to more than 30 colorful ethnic tribes and to Vietnam’s highest peak, Mt. Fansipan. Perched on a hill overlooking the valley, the Victoria Sapa Resort provides an excellent base for those seeking adventure on a road less traveled in close harmony with nature and an authentic cultural experience.

The Resort
Built as a traditional mountain chalet with warm wooden décor and a cozy stone fireplace, the Victoria Sapa Resort perfectly blends into its natural setting, surrounded by lush green gardens, rural terraces and breathtaking mountainscapes. Guests feel at ease in the mountain chalet atmosphere where welcoming accommodations bring together the elegance of traditional local ethnic handicraft with the comfort of French colonial style in earthy tones, hardwood floors and vibrant embroidered native tapestry. Each unit features a private terrace with spectacular views in all directions. This child-friendly resort offers spacious studios ideal for families of 4-5 as well.

The most exciting adventures at the resort center on mountain trekking, cycling and excursions to the foothills of Mt. Fansipan, and to the area’s authentic hill tribe villages and markets. Russian jeep safaris to the more remote markets and ethnically diverse areas, boating on the Chay River, trekking around Ta Van area and overnight homestays in local villages are also on offer.

Conquer Mount Fansipan, Vietnam

Trekking in Mt. Fansipan Foothils
Reserved for in-house guests, the romantic overnight train rides from Hanoi to Lao Cai (Sapa) aboard the resort’s own Victoria Express train is an experience in itself. Kids will especially enjoy the sleeping carriages with berths, the plus-red dining carriage, comfortable seats and exotic landscapes en route.

Victoria Express Train Berths
Committed to environmental protection and local tourism sustainability, the Victoria Sapa Resort served as an ideal base for exploring the wonders of Sapa’s enchanting surroundings and very authentic hillside tribes.

Source: familyadventuretravelworks

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101 reasons to love living in Hanoi

In 2001, Mark Rapoport and his family left New York to settle in Hanoi. The long-time expat and his Vietnamese partner run 54 Traditions, a gallery that sells handicrafts produced by ethnic minorities from all over the country. Almost every year, Rapaport’s two sons visit their parents and travel throughout the city.

Sword lake, Hanoi

“Over the last nine years, my wife, Alison, and I (with some help from our two children Robert and Jane Hughes) have put together a list of 101 reasons why we love living in Hanoi,” Rapaport said. “We presented it as a book, entitled 101 reasons to love living in Hanoi, which we published last July to celebrate the 1,000th year anniversary of Thang Long – Hanoi.”

Thanh Nien Weekly has selected our favorite items from the list.

1. The people – the hardest-working, least-complaining, most optimistic folks anywhere.

2. The city – an extremely safe place, where foreign teenagers can go walking and make their own adventures, without their parents getting (more) gray hairs worrying about them.

3. The lakes – Hanoi is a city of lakes, dozens of them, many surrounded by parks and walks.

4. Our indoor gecko lizards, skittering across walls and ceilings. It takes a little getting used to (especially when they croak at night), but they do keep the house almost insect-free. Kinda like a good “mouser” cat.

5. Early morning flower parades. If you can manage to get yourself up before 6 a.m. (it cannot be that hard; everyone else in Vietnam seems to be able to do it), you can see dozens of flower-sellers. These women (in simple clothes, bandanas and conical hats) ride into town on their bicycles, ready for market.

Morning flowers

6. Men as active parents. Nowhere have I seen so many fathers taking care of their kids (without any complaining) as I do here. And this applies to their daughters as well as their sons!

7. “The Yelling at Your Kid” Test. This assesses frequency of parents yelling at their kids. The total I see in a week is about the same as I would see in Manhattan in an hour.

8. “The Your-Kickstand-is-Down” Test. This measures the amount of time an obviously foreign person can ride in the street after having forgotten to retract his/her motorbike kickstand before a total stranger shouts, points or honks to alert the cyclist to his/her potential risk. In Vietnam, it is about 19 seconds, an excellent score.

9. Our neighborhood People’s Committee security post – at the end of the lane, staffed by two older folks who wave every time we pass. They absolutely will not let you take their picture – unless the portrait of Uncle Ho is in the center of the photo.

10. The street cleaners of Hanoi. Virtually all women, in Day-Glo vests, wheeling small dumpsters all around their assigned bailiwick while ringing a bell to signal people to bring out their trash. They are part of what makes Hanoi much cleaner than many cities in the developing world and more than a few in the developed world.

11. The airport road – a wide road through rice paddies but passing new industrial parks. Not manicured or “gussied up”, it is both a gateway and an honest introduction to the country.

12. The Vietnamese Museum of Ethnology – a little like the anthropology part of The American Museum of Natural History in New York, USA. Great museum for exhibits on the 54 “ethnic groups” of Vietnam. In 2002, the Discovery Room for kids was re-done with 200 objects that we donated from our collection.

13. The Thirty-six Streets – the oldest part of the old city of Hanoi, with no new or tall construction, by dint of government decree. Each street named after the craft that was (and in some cases still is) practiced there.

14. Eating out – nowhere else can you eat at the top national restaurants (with white-glove service from traditionally dressed men and women) for so little money.

15. The Water Puppet Theater – a unique, funky northern Vietnamese folk entertainment – for at least the last 500 years one hundred different puppets, in a few dozen folk tales, gliding over a pool of water, guided by hidden (and sodden) puppeteers, moving to the beat of a raucous live orchestra.

16. Hanoi traffic – like no other place in the world. Guaranteed to make every daily commute worthy of inclusion in “French Connection 3” or the theme for a hair-raising video game. As far as I can tell, the speed limit is the only law that many drivers DO choose to follow.

17. Local painting galleries-there are many really talented artists in Hanoi who do paintings of every size - from wall-size to postcard-size. They portray life in Hanoi and in the countryside and mountains as they see it. Or else a copy of your favorite Old Master. Great to browse.

18. The quintessential mixed-income neighborhood pattern. Since the land under you is believed to have a lot to do with how lucky you are, financially successful people do not move to a “better” neighborhood the moment they make some money. Rather, they build up (and up) and fancy up their traditional house on their traditional street. The juxtaposition of pastel “Victorian follies” and centuries-old hovels is startling and also revealing.

19. Birdcages - the birds are nothing to write home about, but the cages themselves come in an extraordinary range of materials and styles; most notable are those in the shape of pagodas, made for female birds. Many of them are truly elegant items. No bird necessary.

20. The new four-kilometer-long mosaic mural installed along the Yen Phu dam-road in honor of 1,000th anniversary of Hanoi. A variety of styles, artists, themes, and techniques - but together saying that Hanoi is proud of its first 1,000 years, and Hanoi will be just as proud of its next 1,000 years.

Recommendation:

101 Reasons to Love Living in Hanoi is presented in both English and Vietnamese.( Price: US$5 )

Available at:
- 54 Traditions Gallery, 30 Hang Bun St.
- Bookworm, 44 Chau Long St.

All proceeds go to Operation Smile and other children’s charities in Vietnam.

Source: TNs

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Gone Fishing in Vam Nao

The Mekong Delta is inherently famous for immense rice fields, floating markets on alluvial rivers, colorful orchards and serpentine canals. The excellent fishing in the delta has become a tourism drawcard as can be seen in the many brochures on display at travel agencies – with tours that take you fishing one day and farming the next.

Every part of the Mekong Delta has its own peculiar fishing techniques. Locals use different types of fish traps, nets and fishing rods.

As we wanted to find out what it would be like to be fishermen, we decided to go to Vam Nao Canal that links the Hau and Tien rivers in An Giang Province’s Tan Phu District. To get there turn off National Road 91A and travel 15km to Nang Gu ferry then ride eight kilometers to Tan Phu District’s Ong Chuong Islet.

Vam Nao canal is about 800 meters wide and 6.5 kilometers long. It is home to many kinds of fish such as ho fish, bong lau fish and even whales sometimes plus thu and doi fish and crocodiles.

For six months from early in the eleventh month of the lunar calendar is the season to catch bong lau fish. The best days to fish are the 14,15, 19 and 30 days of the lunar month.

Bong lau fish, whose scientific name is Pangasius krempfi, are found throughout the Mekong River in Southeast Asia. They live in fresh water and eat seaweed and crustaceans. They grow to 120cm in length and can weigh as much as 20 kilograms. The fish, which has been widely domesticated here, is sought after for its flavor and can be used to make a range of delicious healthy dishes.

After nightfall about 7 p.m., we set off in a wooden boat to Nam Vao. It was rather cool, but we were keen to catch some fish so the cold didn’t bother us.

It was a dark night and the river was dark, except for the red and yellow lamps of other fishing boats. The red glow on the water made us fancy that we were in the middle of a lantern releasing festival.

After setting the long fishing nets, we lay down on the floor of the boat and talked while we waited. We imagined what dishes we would make with the fish we’d catch. I recommended the bong lau fish sour soup with many kinds of vegetable such as pineapple, tomato, Indian taro, tamarind and okra. While my friend suggested fried bong lau fish with lemon grass and steamed bong lau fish with green mango.

The scene was totally still. After about one hour later, we pulled in a net full of fish.

On the way back down the dark river, our hearts were full of happiness because of all the fish we caught and the fun we had as fishermen.

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Pilgrimage to Cau Mountain

VietNamNet Bridge – The traditional practice of taking pilgrimages in Vietnam has become a popular tourism product. The stillness of sacred places, while the smoke from burning incense curls upwards, brings the focus back to the rudiments of life, easing daily stresses and woes and instilling peace and reverence for the soul.

The statue of Bodhisattva at Thai Son Pagoda at the foot of Cau Mountain. (Photo: SGT)

Cau Mountain in Dinh Thanh Commune, Dau Tieng District, Binh Duong Province, is one of the popular destinations for pilgrims near HCMC.

When you first arrive at the base of the mountain, you will see Thai Son Pagoda that was built in 1998 on five hectares. The pagoda has a tower and a 12-meter-high statue of Bodhisattva. It is extremely busy during festival times.

After seeing the pagoda, visitors should head to the rear where the stairs to the mountain top begin. The 1,000 stone steps zigzag upwards, shaded by trees and lined by flowers and boulders. Halfway up the mountain is a shop selling snacks and water and some hammocks where tourists can take a rest and recharge for the next 500 steps.

On the top is a 300 year old tree and a small temple dedicated to the worship of “Cau Bay” who locals believe can protect them and bring them luck.

Looking down is the 27,000 hectare Dau Tieng Lake. The lake, located in Phuoc Minh Commune in Tay Ninh Province’s, Duong Minh Chau District, is the largest irrigation reservoir in Vietnam with a capacity of 1.6 billion cubic meters, enough for 63,000 hectares of farmland in Tay Ninh and HCMC plus 40, 000 hectares in the provinces of Binh Duong and Long An.

Near the foot of the mountain is a thundering waterfall that crashes into Than Tho Lake below.

To reach the lake, tourists can follow National Highway No.13 to Thu Dau Mot Town in Binh Duong Province. At the second highway toll station on Binh Duong Boulevard, turn right on Nguyen Chi Thanh Street (744 Street) and follow it for 30 kilometers then go right at the T-junction of Thanh Tuyen Commune in Ben Cat District. This will take you through Dau Tieng Town of Dau Tieng District and keep going straight for another seven kilometers.

VietNamNet/SGT

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Perfume Pagoda

After 70 km or 2 hours driving out of Hanoi, located on the limestone rocks of Huong Son Mountain in beautiful and mystical surroundings. Unlike other temples in Vietnam, the only way to reach this sanctuary is floating along a narrow but extremely poetic stream by rowing boats that takes 45 minutes.

An iron boat can carry 3-5 people and a large wooden boat – up to 20 locals. The stream is edged by rice, grass, small paths, and temples here and there. A local pilgrim can spend here traditionally three days to visit entirely the area and pray at all the temples. The first temple they often stop is called Den Trinh (i.e. The Shrine for First Presenting), where Vietnamese burn the first jossticks to inform the local deities about their presence and pray for a good trip and good luck for the year ahead. If you are anxious to reach the main Wharf of Huong Son mountain to start the uphill trip to see the Main Grotto of Huong Tich, you may skip this temple, especially in the peak season between January and early April.

The uphill trip takes an hour climbing on the ancient flat and sometime slippery stones, which have been here thousand years ago. The road is "breathtaking" in all aspects – you will have some exercise, and at the same time have chance to take some stops to contemplate beautiful scenery and daily life of local farmers, who plant cassava and apricots in the valleys, who run quickly on the slippery stone with their burdens of tapioca, apricots or medicinal herbs whilst you are careful with your steps. The main pagoda is set in a huge grotto containing a highly decorative shrine. Each stalactite and stalagmite inside, which are soaked by undercurrent, is combined with a legend about its miracle and good luck. Most of them became small shrines by now. Remember that the stone grotto is huge and very cool, so stop for a while at the entrance to dry your sweat before coming in.

The main festive days of Chua Huong stretches from January to early April, busy and exciting. Sometimes it's drizzling and the Vietnamese all believe that the real good things will reach you if you catch rainwater after praying in a sacred pagoda. And among all the sacred temples and pagodas in Northern Vietnam, Chua Huong is even more attractive and mysterious not only for its spectacular scenery, but for the painstaking road you passed over to reach to the top.

(Source: Footprint)

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Phong Nha - Ke Bang National Park

The Park is considered a paradise for researchers and explorers of grottoes and caves and is the home to 140 families, 427 branches, and 751 species of precious plants

Phong Nha - Ke Bang is a national park in the center of Quang Binh province in north-central Vietnam. It protects one of the world's two largest karst regions with several hundred caves and grottoes. Its name derives from Phong Nha cave, the most beautiful one, with numerous fascinating rock formations, and Ke Bang forest. The plateau is probably one of the finest and most distinctive examples of a complex karst landform in Southeast Asia.

Location:
Geographically, the Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park (PNKBNP) is located in central Vietnam, about 500km south of the capital, Hanoi, within the Quang Binh Province.

The western boundary of the Park partially forms Laos-Vietnamese border, which is only 42km from the sea. The Park is found within the geographical co-ordinates of 170 20'-170 48' N and 1050 46-1060 24' E in Bo Trach and Minh Hoa Districts.

Recognition by UNESCO in 2003
Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park was first nominated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998. The dossier submited to UNESCO was for the recognition of Phong Nha nature reserve as a world natural heritage under the name “Phong Nha Nature Reserve”. The reason given for the nomination was that this nature reserve satisfied the criteria of biodiversity, unique beauty and geodiversity (criteria I and iv).

It was recognized as a world natural heritage site at the UNESCO's 27th general assembly session being held in Paris in June 30th – July 5th, 2003. At the session, delegates from over 160 member countries of UNESCO World Heritage Convention agreed to include Phong Nha-Ke Bang park and 30 others worldwide in the list of world heritage sites. Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park meets with criteria viiii in accordance with UNESCO’s appraisal scale since it displays an impressive amount of evidence of earth’s history and is a site of importance for increasing human understanding of the geologic, geomorphic and geo-chronological history of the region.

Physical features:
Criterion (viii): Phong Nha is part of a larger dissected plateau, which also encompasses the Ke Bang and Hin Namno karsts. The limestone incontinuously demonstrates the complexity interbedding with shales and sandstones. This, together with the capping of schists and apparent granites has led to a particularly distinctive topography.

Looking into the caves, you may recognize discrete episodic sequences of events, leaving behind various levels of fossil passages, formerly buried and now uncovered palaeokarst (karst from previous, perhaps very ancient, periods of solution); evidence of major changes in the routes of underground rivers; changes in the solutional regime; deposition and later re-solution of giant speleothems and unusual features such as sub-aerial stromatolites. The location and form of the caves suggest that they might owe much of their size and morphology to some as yet undetermined implications of the schists and granites which overlay the limestone. On the surface, there is a striking series of landscapes, ranging from deeply dissected ranges and plateaux to an immense polje. There is evidence of at least one period of hydrothermal activity in the evolution of this ancient mature karst system. The plateau is probably one of the finest and most distinctive examples of a complex karst landform in SE Asia.

Cultural heritage:
The oldest evidence of human occupation of the area are Neolithic axe heads and similar artefacts found in some of the caves. There are some relics of Ham Nghi King, a final King of the Nguyen dynasty before the French colonial period, at the Maria Mountain in the north of the Park. Currently the Arem, Ma Coong and Ruc ethnic groups live in two villages in the core zone of Phong Nha Ke - Bang National Park. Until 1962 these indigenous people lived in the forest in houses made of bamboo and leaves or in the caves, living from forest products and hunting. They used simple tools and their clothes were made from the bark of a toxic forest tree (Antiaris toxicaria) and lianas.

Since 1992 the Government of Vietnam has set up two new settlements for these 475 people, who are the two smallest ethnic groups in Vietnam. These people are familiar with a number of economically valuable species, especially precious timber such as Mun and Hue (Diospyros spp., Dalbergia rimosa), and oil-extraction from species such as Tau (Hopea hainanensis) and many medicinal plants. The Phong Nha Cave has long been a site of religious and touristic importance, with an old Cham Temple discovered in the cave and it was a site of worship in the ninth and tenth centuries. During the war with the USA the Phong Nha - Ke Bang forest and caves were a garrison and weapons store for the Vietnamese army.

Conservation value:
Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park is of high conservation value as one of the largest areas of intact forest habitat remaining in Vietnam. As part of a continuous forest block with the neighbouring Him Namno Biodiversity Conservation Area in Laos it forms one of the largest areas of forest on limestone karst in Indochina. The presence of tall lowland forest, which is regionally threatened as a habitat type, in the National Park increases the area's conservation value.

Tourist activities
The number of tourists has increased dramatically since the park was listed in UNESCO's World Heritage Sites. Tourism activities in the area are the responsibility of the Trading and Tourism Department of Quang Binh province, with 280 international standard rooms in the province and 8 vehicles with capacities of 4 to 15 seats for tourist transportation. The forest guards of Son Trach commune in Bo Trach district are placed on tourist security duty.

Quang Binh Province has invested into upgrading the Phong Nha-Ke Bang visitor site to turn it into one of Vietnam's major tourist destinations.

Multiple eco-tourist projects have been licensed for development and the area is being heavily developed by the province to turn it into a major tourist site in Vietnam. Phong Nha Ke Bang is part of a tourism promotion program called: "Middle World Heritage Road" which includes the ancient capital of Hue, the Champa relics of My Son, the city of Hoi An, nha nhac and the Space of Gong Culture in the Central Highlands of Vietnam.

Tourist activities in Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park are organized by local travel agencies and vary in form:

    * Tour for expedition of caves and grottos in boats and with professional cave expedtion means.
    * Ecotourism, discovering the florae and fauna in this national park in the Ke Bang Forest.
    * Mountain climbing: There are extreme sloping mountains here with a height of over 1,000 m, which is a real challenge for adventurous climbers

In order to facilitate the increasing flow of tourists to the site, the Dong Hoi Airport was constructed and is due to be operational at the end of 2008.

Phong Nha-Ke Bang, together with Ha Long Bay and Fansipan of Vietnam, is listed as a candidate for 7 new world natural wonders vote. As of February 12, 2008 it ranked 10th in the voting list

In summary, Phong Nha displays an impressive amount of evidence of earth’s history. It is a site of very great importance for increasing our understanding of the geologic, geomorphic and geo-chronological history of the region.

(Source: Vietnam-Beauty)

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Vietnam Air services to central region normal

– Vietnam Airlines is expecting to resume all daily flights to central Vietnam on Wednesday after it has canceled 34 flights to certain airports due to downpours over the past days in the region.

The national flag carrier said it aborted four services to and from Dong Hoi on Tuesday and transported stranded passengers by road from the airport in Quang Binh Province to Hue, which is also in central Vietnam.

From October 15 to 18, Vietnam Airlines canceled 28 flights to and from Vinh and two from and to Chu Lai due to torrential rains and fog at these airports. Bad weather also forced Vietnam's low-cost carrier Jetstar Pacific to divert its two HCMC-Vinh flights to Noi Bai airport in Hanoi on October 17 and 18.

However, things have changed positively in the central airports as Jetstar Pacific told the Daily on Tuesday that its daily flights to and from Vinh returned to normal on Tuesday.

In addition to scheduled daily services, Vietnam Airlines also flew twice from Vinh to HCMC on Tuesday to transport stranded passengers. The airline said it would operate its flights to all airports in central Vietnam as usual because the weather there was forecast to have improved and it was safe for aircraft to land and take off.

Both Vietnam Airlines and Jestar Pacific said they were keeping a close eye on Typhoon Megi as this super storm may affect their flights. They called for passengers to check the latest information on their websites and at booking offices.

VietNamNet/SGT

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Cat Ba National Park in Vietnam

Cat Ba National Park is centred on Cat Ba Island, the largest island in Halong Bay. The Cat Ba archipelago itself comprises 366 islents and islands. Together they cover an area of 20,000 hectares of limestone islands. When I visited Halong Bay with a group of AsiaExplorers members, we had an opportunity to kayak in Cat Ba National Park. The kayaking session was long and exhausting, but ultimately fulfilling, as we rowed from island to island, and on our return journey, even had to row across the open sea.

Most of the islets dotting Cat Ba National Park is covered with vegetation, although there are sheer limestone cliffs where hardly anything grew. Nonetheless, it is not uncommon to sea tenacious shrubs clinging to those otherwise barren cliffs, and on occasion, we even saw mountain goats and monkeys on the cliffs. The feeling of kayaking through the labyrinthine maze of islands, where the only sound was that of your oar on the water, was simply magnificent.

There is at least one floating village in the national park. They earn a living through shrimp and fish farming, and from the occasional tourist boat that drop by. As soon as our junk arrived, the villagers rowed towards us with their wares, nothing of value and nothing that we need.

How to go to Cat Ba National Park?
The easiest way to reach Cat Ba National Park is to book a tour of Halong Bay. There is plenty to choose from in Hanoi, but if you wish to use the tour that I used, you can contact Mr. Johnny  of Visit Beyond at address 29 Hang Hom Street, Hanoi. Phone: +84-4-39287124, Email: vietnam@visitbeyond.com.

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Historic and picturesque Cao Bang

VietNamNet Bridge – Cao Bang Province, about 286 kilometers north of Hanoi, has a landscape that begs exploration and a history that demands looking back at.

Ban Gioc Waterfall is the largest waterfall in Vietnam. (Photo: SGT)

The province is famous for Pac Po Cave, Ban Gioc Waterfall and Lenin Stream.

We came to Cao Bang in the late noon. The highlands city was not too noisy as the Bac Giang River starts to roar in the early rainy season. When we were there it was the dry season so there was silence.

Cao Bang is about 200 meters high above sea level but some areas of the province reaches about 600 meters to 1,300 meters near the border.

After taking a lunch of wild pork and wild vegetables, we headed to Pac Po Cave where we spent an entire day. The cave is in a rugged rocky mountain, about 55 kilometers north of Cao Bang Township.

Pac Po means a mouth where hundreds of streams flow, so the cave has many smaller limestone caverns and fresh streams. Uncle Ho lived in one of the caverns. His cave is eight meters long and five meters wide with many holes to let in sunlight and fresh air. Lit by one of these rays of light was a large rock which the tour guide said was the bed and desk of Uncle Ho.

Near the cave is Karl Marx Mountain and below the mountain is a perfectly clear spring which the former President named Lenin. In front of the cave is a 1,000 square meter yard that is shaded by old trees.

Leaving Pac Po Cave to return to Cao Bang Township, we came to Ban Gioc Waterfall in Dam Thuy Commune early in the morning next day. The roar of the water hitting the cliffs could be heard kilometers away. We had heard it in Trung Khanh so we were keen to see it.

Rafts cruised under the thirty meter tall waterfall that divides into three. At the foot of the falls is a large river, as smooth as glass, lined by different flowers.

VietNamNet/SGT

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Four million international visitors arrive Vietnam

VietNamNem Bridge - Vietnam welcomed nearly four million foreign arrivals between January and September of 2010.

This number is a huge increase compared to previous years: up 34.2 percent from last year’s figure, according to statistics from the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism (VNAT).

Of the 4 million tourists, around 37,500 traveled by sea, an increase of 22 percent from the same period last year.

On October 15, Viet Excursion Company welcomed a five-star cruise liner named Diamond Princess at Phu My port in HCM City. The cruise ship carried 2,585 visitors and 1,063 crew members from 47 different nations and territories.

Meanwhile, HCM City’s tourism sector is organizing more entertainment and art programmes for tourists, hoping to receive its 3 millionth visitor late this year.

PV

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Dong Van stone plateau

VietNamNet Bridge – The plateau was recognized by the UNESCO as one of the 77 geological parks in the world and the second in Southeast Asia on October 3.

The park covers four districts of Meo Vac, Dong Van, Yen Minh and Quan Ba, totaling over 2,300sq.km, with nearly 250,000 residents. Up to 80 percent of the plateau is covered by limestone.

Scientists have discovered 40 locations which have special values in terms of natural resources in Dong Van.

Dong Van is home to nearly 20 ethnic groups, with diverse cultures and traditions, which make the plateau an interesting destination for tourists/visitors.

VietNamNet’s Le Anh Dung captures the life in Dong Van:

Ethnic minority women on the way to the market.

The plateau in the early morning.

A house of H'mong people.

The house of the H'mong King.

An ancient stone tomb.

A market.

Taking cattle and animals to the market.

Playing pan-pipe at the market.

Men drink rice alcohol.

The biggest problem in the plateau is water shortage.

Le Anh Dung

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10 Things Travel Guidebooks Won't Say

1. We’re already out of date.

After more than a week in $5-a-night hostels in Peru, Caitlin Childs was looking forward to a hot shower and a comfortable bed. But when she got to the Hotel Paracas, there was no hot shower, no bed – and no hotel. “It had been leveled in an earthquake the year before,” says Childs, a graphic designer and frequent traveler. It turned out her Footprint Peru Handbook – the latest edition – had been published a year and a half before her July 2008 trip.

Even without earthquakes, much of the information covered by guidebooks changes too fast for book publishers to keep up. Restaurants close, quaint markets lose their cachet, and trains change their schedules. If it’s essential to your trip, make a phone call before you go, says Peggy Goldman, the president of Friendly Planet Travel, a tour operator. Never rely on a guidebook for key information like whether you’ll need a visa to enter a country and how much it will cost, or what vaccinations you might need, Goldman says, because those facts can change rapidly. Although the guidebook’s web site may have more up-to-date information, travelers should still check with the consulate and look for CDC alerts for the latest information.

2. No news is bad news.

There’s simply not space in most guidebooks to include negative reviews – so a hotel or restaurant that isn’t in the book might not have made the cut for a reason, says Thomas Kohnstamm, a former Lonely Planet guidebook writer and the author of the memoir, “Do Travel Writers Go to Hell?” Guidebooks are also trying not just to inform but to sell potential travelers on the idea of a particular destination, he says. The end result: Every beach is beautiful, and the people of every country are “some of the nicest people in the world.” “It’s supposed to be an unvarnished take on places but you have to be pretty PC about everything,” Kohnstamm says.

It’s true that space is limited, so if something isn’t in the book, “there may be a reason,” says Ensley Eikenburg, the associate publisher of Frommer’s travel guides. The exception: “There are certain iconic places that can be overrated, and that’s something we encourage our writers to say,” she says.

3. We haven’t actually been there.

It’s called a “desk update": Writers use the phone, the Internet, stories from other travelers and even old-fashioned books to research a destination, but they never actually go there. The practice is common throughout the travel industry, Kohnstamm says. And with tight budgets, some publishers simply never ask how writers are getting their information.

Eikenburg, of Frommer’s, admits that the company does desk updates, but only on a few titles that cover multiple countries, while Lonely Planet’s Americas publisher, Brice Gosnell, says that the company’s contracts with writers always require travel to the location they’re covering.

4. We’re relying on you to catch our mistakes.

There’s essentially no fact-checking process for most guidebooks, Kohnstamm says. “They might do a random check, but mainly they’re trying to rely on the writer” to get things right, he says. (Lonely Planet and Frommer’s say fact-checking is the writer’s responsibility.) In practice, and with the prevalence of the “desk update” (see No. 2), that may mean waiting for readers to point out errors or out-of-date information. Jeffrey Ward, the founder of Savvy Navigator Tours, says he once wrote to Fodor’s to let them know that the index to their South Africa guide was from a previous edition, making it very difficult to quickly look up restaurants or sites while out walking around. Ward says the company sent him a free copy of a corrected book within a couple of months.

5. That “easy” hike is only easy for experts.

In 2007, a 32-year old hiker died taking what a guidebook had described as the “easy way” up Tryfan, a 3,000-foot mountain in Wales. “The definition of ‘easy’ is relative depending upon your experience, your physical ability, your footwear, clothing and kit, and your party,” explains Chris Lloyd, a spokesman for the local Ogwen Valley Mountain Rescue Organization. Death by hiking is fortunately uncommon, but Brian King, the publisher of guidebooks for the Appalachian Trail Conservancy, says his organization frequently hears complaints from less-experienced hikers who feel the books make scrambling over boulders sound like an easy day’s stroll. “We could probably do a better job of accommodating the day hiker,” King says.


6. We ruined that secluded spot we mentioned.

Brian Ghidinelli thought he and his wife were the only tourists in Old Hanoi’s winding streets – until they walked into a Lonely-Planet-recommended restaurant, which was packed with other travelers, some with their own Lonely Planet Vietnam guides on their tables. “While we ate, several more pairs walked in with guidebook in hand,” Ghidinelli, an entrepreneur and experienced traveler, says. Accidentally walking into a tourist trap can have financial consequences, too. In Ghidinelli’s experience, hotels and restaurants recommended by the guidebook tended to cost 25% or 30% more than those that didn’t cater to tourists.

7. We’re terrified of your smartphone.

Ten years ago, guidebooks to popular destinations like Walt Disney World or Paris were common on the New York Times best-sellers list, says Michael Norris, a senior analyst for Simba Information, a market research firm that covers publishing and media. These days, the physical books just don’t sell as well as they used to, in part because so much information is now available for free online – TripAdvisor, anyone? – and can be accessed on the spot with a GPS-equipped phone.

8. Going to Estonia? We don’t really care.

Guidebook writers sent to less well-traveled destinations are often hindered by tiny budgets, Kohnstamm says, explaining that books about popular destinations command the majority of the companies' resources. “The rest get sort of short shrift,” he says. Other publishers see it differently. Frommer’s doesn’t spend more on the more popular guides either, Eikenburg says. “If one of our customers buys our guide to Panama and it’s not accurate, then we’ve lost that customer to the competition when they go out and buy an Italy guide or an Alaska guide,” she says.

9. We’re tourists too.

Guidebooks can’t always be trusted for “insider” tips on what the locals eat, how they behave or what the cultural norms are in a country, says Bryan Schmidt, who has traveled to six countries on four continents over the last ten years. Guidebooks for Brazil, for example, will recommend places to get “authentic” feijoada, a traditional meat and bean stew – but Schmidt, whose wife is Brazilian, says even those meals are designed for tourists. Of course, some may see that as a blessing: The truly authentic dish involves “a lot of pig ears and pig snouts,” Schmidt says.
“It’s possible to overcome the challenge of not being from a place, but it just takes a lot of time,” says James Kaiser, the author of several independent guidebooks to national parks. Kaiser says he likes to spend about two years doing research so he can get to know locals and see how a place changes over time. Of course, even locals can make mistakes. Kaiser grew up near Acadia National Park in Maine, but his first guide to the area included a recommendation of a picnic spot for families that he came to regret. “Nude bathing was not uncommon,” Kaiser says. “I learned the hard way to triple-check my information.”

10. Don’t take all of our advice.

Some travelers feel guidebooks encourage a frenzied, see-it-all approach to tourism. “I have a really good friend who’s a lawyer, and she prepares for a trip the same way she prepares for a murder trial,” says Friendly Planet Travel’s Goldman. Relying on a guidebook for minute-by-minute planning robs a trip of spontaneity, she says. “The true reason for travel is the absolute thrill of discovering something all by yourself.”

Correction: The name of Peggy Goldman's company is Friendly Planet Travel. An earlier version of this article called it Family Planet Travel.


Source: SmartMoney.com

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A path to somewhere

It takes some getting to, but a bamboo-lined dirt road makes it worthwhile

A long bridge across the Ma River is just one of the picturesque features on the trip to the Suoi Muong bamboo path

If it’s all about the journey and not the destination, there is a “journey to a journey” involving quite a few ups and downs, not to mention twists and turns, that awaits the nature lover in Vietnam’s northern region.

The destination is a path, 40 kilometers long, that winds its way through a dense bamboo grove in Thanh Hoa Province.

In order to reach the Suoi Muong bamboo path, there’s a long way to go, past high mountains and deep valleys. A motorbike is an indispensable accessory.

Let’s get going from Hanoi and head to Hoa Binh, where Muong Lat Street along the Lao border leads to the mountainous western part of Thanh Hoa.

The first village on the road is named Thanh Son, where backpackers can tuck in for the night in local homes after a simple supper.

As we go further, more villages appear, as do the first bamboos.

Here, the road is named Suoi Muong after a local stream.

Along the red-soil road, which gets narrower toward the end, are tall, dense bamboo grasses that cast their green shadows on the Ma River flowing alongside.

Then the bamboos disappear, and the Mau Village market comes into view, several minutes from the pier across the Ma River.

Stationed at the pier is a woman in her sixties. Her teeth are dyed in black, a beauty aid for Vietnamese women in the old times and a tradition to protect their teeth.

“I row until four in the afternoon, then go home to rest,” said the ferrywoman who has been doing this job nearly 20 years and knows everyone in the area.

There are close to 30 streams, big and small, in the area and they put in an appearance after every turn along Suoi Muong road that is 100 kilometers long. But not every stream has a boat to take you across. Sometimes, people have to wade into the water first and lead others waiting to take their bikes across.

And the adventure is only the beginning. Some parts of the road are piles of rock, some are slippery soil, some are in between the cliff where the bikes have half a meter width to drive on.

The bike driver needs to be firm and the pillion rider should be ready to jump off at all times to help push the motorbike.

It can be discouraging, but if you’re in a mood to take things on, the tough road is the perfect challenge.

The Ma River continues to flow alongside, playfully switching from the left to the right and vice versa. On some parts of the road, the river is so close you can lean over and wash your hands in the flowing waters.

It’s best to make this journey early May, when it’s not raining and the bamboos are in their post-spring prime.

November or December is also good as the monsoon has passed and the bamboos throw in a dash of yellow.

The journey is an absolute no-no during the first days of rainy season as the road gets very muddy, the rocks get very slippery and the streams get very fierce.

Every 10 or 15 kilometers on the road is a village where such necessities as instant noodles, eggs, soaps, cookies and sweets can be procured.

Most villages are home to ethnic minority groups who invariably bade visitors passing by their stilt houses to come in and rest, freshen up and even use their ovens to cook.

Not far from Chieng Nua, one of the villages, is a cemetery on a cliff that dates back to the 11th century. The place is also home to vestiges of the Dong Son Culture, a prehistoric Bronze Age in Vietnam, and temples worshiping heroes of the Lam Son revolution during the early 15th century against Chinese invaders.

The journey can take longer, but patience is rewarded when, almost unnoticed, the magnificent bamboo path is there in front, casting a mysterious aura and allure.

Long and slender, the leaves sparkle in the sun and make joyful rustling and creaking sounds as the breeze blows through them. The play of light and shade is soothing and exciting at the same time. Where does the path lead?

But that’s it. There is nowhere to go but where the path takes you. In fact, the path is “home”. You have arrived.

Source: Thanh nien

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Elephant hunter cemetery in Dak Lak

VietNamNet Bridge – For a taste of central highlands history, tourists to Daklak Province should visit the tomb of the king of elephant hunters in Buon Don Village.

The tomb of the king of elephant hunting, N’Thu Knul, in Buon Don Village in Daklak.

There are 40 elephant hunters buried in the unique graveyard that has about 40 tombs. The hunters entombed there killed at least 25 to 30 elephants each. To be buried in the cemetery was a tribute to their huntsmanship.

The oldest tomb belongs to N’Thu Knul, who was a powerful tribal chief born in 1828. He is worshipped as founder of the art of hunting elephants. He also tamed hundreds of the big animals and presented one of them to the royal family in Thailand earning him the title of King of Elephant Hunters (Khunjunob) from the Thai King. A year after his death, in 1939 at the age of 110, his nephew R’Leo Knul held a ceremony and built the tomb for him.

Jars beside the tomb are for villagers to put rice in to feed the dead.

The tomb of R’Leo Knul lies next to his uncle’s tomb. Born in 1871, he succeeded Khunjunob as tribal chief, and developed the tradition of elephant hunting and taming in the Village. R’Leo Knul tamed a white elephant for the late emperor Bao Dai. R’Leo Knul died in 1941 at the age of 70.

The tombs are built in the M’Nong-Laos architectural style and are decorated with lotus flowers and two pairs of wooden peacock statues.

The tombs of women are decorated with fabric.

All tombs have a hole in the top. When they buried the dead, they placed the hunter’s mouth under the hole so they could feed him rice every day for three years. After three years, the villagers held a ceremony called le bo ma (grave-leaving ceremony), a traditional ceremony of the ethnic people in the highlands to say goodbye to the dead. It was usually organized in the spring and was considered a festive day. Villagers gathered at the cemetery grounds, and the family members brought offerings of food. They sang songs, danced and enjoyed the food and drinks taken from the altar in the belief that the soul of the dead returned to join the feast. After the ceremony, relatives of the dead no longer took care of the grave.

VietNamNet/SGT

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National Tourism Year to be celebrated nationwide

VietNamNet Bridge - The Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism has proposed to the Prime Minister that localities take turns celebrating National Tourism Year from 2012-2017.

Thua Thien-Hue will do in 2012, Hai Phong in 2013, Lam Dong in 2014, Thanh Hoa in 2015, Kien Giang in 2016 and Lao Cai in 2017.

National Tourism Year is the biggest annual event in Vietnam’s tourism industry and is intended to encourage investment in local infrastructure facilities and services.

It also helps to train human resources, promote products in foreign markets, diversify and develop tourism in different parts of the country.

Since 2003, National Tourism Year has been held in Quang Ninh, Dien Bien, Nghe An, Quang Nam, Can Tho, Thai Nguyen and Hanoi.

Phu Yen is scheduled to host the event in 2011.

Source: VOV

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VISITING REMOTE BA BE LAKE

We weren’t quite sure what to expect from our final road trip in Vietnam. Ba Be Lake was not even mentioned in our two guidebooks, but we had been happy with the itinerary up to this point, so we figured we would trust the travel agency.

The original itinerary had called for our two nights in Ba Be Lake to be a home stay with a local family. After our experience in the loft with the rice bags in Sapa we were thinking that one home stay was enough and we requested the hotel option. Ms. Trang, who was our contact person at the agency, emailed us back assuring us that a hotel stay was fine, but she asked that we visit the home first and then make the decision. We said this would be OK, but I was wondering about the propriety of visiting a home and then, in effect, saying, “No thanks, we’d rather not stay.”

Phong and Quang picked us up at 8:00 AM for what would be a long day of driving. It was a 6-hour drive to the lake, plus taking time for a lunch stop and a break to visit a museum along the way. The final leg of the trip was on a narrow, winding road up and over a high mountain then down into a fertile valley.

We arrived at the home of Col. Ngon Van Toan and his family. The Colonel had retired from the North Vietnamese army in 1994 after a 30-year military career. He did not speak English but he greeted us warmly holding his 11-month old granddaughter, who was an absolute charmer. The house was a traditional wood stilt house, but it was built on cement pylons. It had two large rooms. One was set up for the family with cooking areas and partitioned bedrooms, and the other was for guest quarters, which featured real beds separated by plywood sides and curtains. Pam gave me the OK, and we told Phong we would skip the hotel option and bunk in with the Toan family. We used what daylight was remaining to explore the neighborhood and get acquainted with the family’s farm animals.

In the evening we joined the family sitting on the floor in front of the TV and watched the four generations of ladies do the meal preparation. Col. Toan’s daughter and daughter-in-law did most of the cooking, while his wife did the prep work, and his mother kept the baby entertained. A more accurate statement is that the baby entertained all of us.

The colonel was an intriguing gentleman. He came across as a gentle and gregarious family man, educated and intelligent. One wall of the guest quarters was filled with plaques, certificates, and citations from his military career. It was one of those times I would have loved to have had one of those computers of the future, which will provide instantaneous interpretation, allowing us to carry on a detailed conversation in any language. I looked upon him as a grandfather and a contemporary of my own father, but after recording my passport information in his guest log he informed me that I was only a year younger than him. Occasionally I get reminded that I’m not really sitting still while the rest of the world is getting older.

We were served dinner in the guest quarters at a small coffee table, so we didn’t have to negotiate all the dishes on the floor like the rest of the family, but the Colonel joined us for a couple of rice wine toasts, as did his son, who arrived home mid-way through the meal. By 9:00 the temperature had dropped considerably, and we were ready to crawl under the heavy blankets and read ourselves to sleep.

We began waking up, with help from numerous roosters, starting at about 5:00, but it was 7:30 by the time we finally rolled out from under the blankets and wandered into the family area to sit around the fireplace and watch the preparation of “banana cakes.” The batter, which resembled a pancake batter, was poured into a wok containing an inch of bubbling oil (origination unknown), where it would solidify and cook for about five minutes. When Toan’s daughter-in-law placed a large plate full of these in front of us we looked at each other skeptically, but after the first bite we were banana cake fans. They were really delicious.

The rest of the day was spent exploring Ba Be Lake. Our driver, Quang, joined Phong, Pam and I as Col. Toan’s son, whose name was Sun, manned the small motorboat and we traversed the large, scenic lake. We left the lake area and continued down a shallow tributary past a small village and farming area. There were villagers all along the way going about their daily chores of fishing, doing laundry, working the fields, etc. We eventually reached our destination, which was a large cave through which the tributary ran. We docked the boat inside the cave and explored. We could hear the sounds of a large colony of bats hanging from the ceiling, resting up for their nocturnal flight.

We returned to the small village, which we had passed earlier, and disembarked for a short hike to a place along the river featuring some small waterfalls. Then we returned to one of the homes, which doubled as a small restaurant, where lunch was being prepared. Our host for lunch was a gregarious older man who insisted on numerous toasts of homemade moonshine poured from a plastic water bottle. I reasoned that since the liquid did not melt the plastic bottle it was probably OK for consumption.

One of our many lunch dishes was fried water buffalo. Pam actually braved a bite or two, but declared it a “guy dish” and returned to her rice and chicken. After a tasty and filling lunch we bid our hosts farewell, boarded our motor launch, and returned to the lake. Once we were back on the lake we met up with a young lady in a dugout canoe. Pam and I and Toan’s son shifted into the canoe, and we spent the next hour and a half traveling in the style that has probably been used for the last thousand years on scenic Ba Be Lake.

We spent the evening enjoying the hospitality of our hosts and another huge meal. While we were touring the lake a group of four French women arrived so we had a total of six tourists, two guides, and two drivers sharing the guest quarters for the evening. None of the girls spoke English so we didn’t visit much, but it was a congenial group and we didn’t really mind sharing our bedroom.

The next morning, after another round of banana cakes, we bid farewell to all the members of the Toan family and started our long drive back to Hanoi. Along the way we asked Phong if we could stop at one of the brick making operations we had seen along side the road. When we did so we attracted the attention of a group of children and eventually the owner of the factory came out to visit. When Phong explained to him that I was an American businessman who owned a factory he became very friendly and asked several questions about my company and about the places Pam and I had visited on our travels. After sharing with me that he paid his workers about $50 per month he asked about salaries in the U.S. When I told him that my employees all made over $100 per day he took a quick look over his shoulder to make sure none of his employees overheard that piece of information.

Back in Hanoi we checked back into the Majestic, took hot baths and dressed for dinner. Phong took us to the French Quarter to the upscale Tonkin Restaurant, where we enjoyed a fish dish served in a clay pot and some tasty pepper steak. After returning to the hotel we visited the night market, which was set up on the street in front of the hotel.

Our last day in Hanoi was filled up with hitting the main tourist sights. We lined up at Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum to get a glimpse of old Uncle Ho lying in state. I think Pam accurately described the experience as “creepy.” We then visited the Ho Chi Minh Museum, the small stilt house where he lived in his last years, the famous One Pillar Pagoda, and a large museum dedicated to the Ethnic tribes of Vietnam. We also had lunch at famous restaurant called Cha Ca La Vong. It serves only one dish and has been doing so for over eighty years. It is called cha ca fish served at the table in a frying pan sitting on a charcoal brazier. After tasting it we can understand why it has been around for so long and why the recipe remains a closely held family secret.

Our last official stop of the tour was at the Hoa Lo Prison, known during the war as the Hanoi Hilton. While most of the prison was torn down to make room for a high rise hotel what remains is now a museum mainly dedicated to the Vietnamese patriots who were held and tortured there by the French authorities during the French colonial period, but there are also two small rooms that contain exhibits and photos of American pilots that were held there. The exhibits tell about how well all the prisoners were treated. Hmmm, perhaps just a bit of mismanagement of historical facts.

The following morning was spent getting the last of our foot massages and packing our bags. Phong and Quang picked us up at noon for our trip to the Hanoi airport and our flight to Siem Reap, Cambodia. Our eleven days in North Vietnam were filled with new adventures and great memories. As for the people we met, we found, as we have on all of our travels, that we are more alike than different. And, the differences are never enough to prevent us from being friends and learning from each other.
(Source: Realtravel.com)

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Int’l arrivals in high season recover in uncertainties

VietNamNet Bridge – Local travel firms have reported recovery in international tourists in the high season of the inbound tourism, but most still refrain from predicting business outcome for the rest of the year, saying uncertainties are still ahead.

Saigontourist Travel Service Co. has reported a good number of foreign travelers in the January-September period at 180,000, up 11% year-on-year. The company’s deputy director Hoang Huu Loc said that it was still very difficult to talk about any estimate for the high season and the whole year.

“So far, we have some bookings for the whole year, but the majority of travelers tend to purchase tours some weeks or one month in advance. Based on current figures we can say the business is increasing at the moment but we can’t say about this year’s growth rate,” he said.

The company names France and Germany among the major source markets with good growth rates.

Normally, travel companies who receive tourists from long-haul destinations such as Europe and North America often close the tours in November or December, but now the companies are still open to requests from customers.

Asian Trails Co., Ltd., another major travel firm in the city, is also reserved about the year’s business.

“It’s hard to assess the market. It’s changing so fast. At my company, the number of tourists still has not recovered to the same level of 2007 or 2008,” said Bui Viet Thuy Tien, director of the company.

The Vietnam National Administration of Tourism has reported more than 3.7 million foreign visitor arrivals to the country during the January-September period, a staggering increase of 34.2% year-on-year.

HCMC as the country’s biggest tourism center said it has welcomed 2.2 million international visitors in the period, up 13% over the same period of last year.

However, local travel firms have reported a lower growth rate of real foreign arrivals, not only from long-haul but also short-haul markets like Japan and South Korea.

“At my company, Singapore, Philippines and China markets take the lead in the growth rate, but the growth rate is still lower than in the good year of 2007,” said Tran Vinh Loc, director of Lac Hong Voyages.

“We are still selling packaged tours as traditional tours to foreign travelers but we are following new trends of travel to make new products in the coming times,” Loc said.

Travel companies have found travelers tending to travel on free and easy tours as well as budget and short-day tours.

VietNamNet/SGT

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Third private carrier flies Viet Nam’s skies

VietNamNet Bridge – Air Mekong, Viet Nam’s third private airline, received its Air Operator’s Certificate from the Civil Aviation Administration of Viet Nam (CAAV) in southern Kien Giang Province on Friday.

On the same day, the carrier also launched its first two routes, Ha Noi – Phu Quoc and HCM City – Phu Quoc.

"The Vietnamese aviation market is dramatically developing. The aviation demand, especially for domestic flights, will increase considerably in the next few years," said CAAV deputy director Dinh Viet Thang.

"The introduction of Air Mekong is essential to meeting market demand, diversifying aviation services and increasing competitiveness," Thang said.

"The CAAV’s certificate will open up a new page for our development", said Air Mekong chairman Doan Quoc Viet.

Air Mekong would start commercial operations since Saturday with eight flights from Ha Noi and HCM City to Phu Quoc, Con Dao, Buon Me Thuot, Pleiku, Viet said, adding that they would expand operations to 10 flights from November including destinations of Da Lat in the Central Highlands and Da Nang City.

The airline has launched a promotional offer until November 9 with 1,000 tickets at prices ranging from VND400,000 to VND1.2 million (US$20.50-$61.50) for flights on all its domestic routes. Tickets are on sale at travel agents and via Air Mekong’s website and customer care centres.

Air Mekong was establish in 2009 by Ha Long Investment and Development Company and is based at Phu Quoc Airport. The existing two private carriers operating in Viet Nam are Indochina Airlines and VietJet AirAsia.

The CAAV said there were also a number of other organisations and individuals planning to launch airlines. To qualify, private operators must have a charter capital of at least VND500 billion ($26.3 million) to fly internationally and VND200 billion ($10.5 million) to launch domestic flights. They must also meet strict aviation and security standards.

VietNamNet/Viet Nam News

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